You can read a book. You can read the room. You can read your partner’s face when you stay in the surf for longer than you should have. But did you know you can also read waves?
Reading waves isn’t magic or woo-woo science. It’s essentially the surfing equivalent of a cricketer stepping examining the pitch before they bowl or bat. Reading waves is all about getting a lay of the land (or in this case, lay of the ocean) so you can make informed decisions on how to approach each surf session.
If you want to catch more waves and ride them with ease, then learning how to read waves and read a forecast are essential skills for any surfer.
Below is everything we know about reading waves for you to, well… read.
What do we mean by “reading waves”?
In surfing, reading waves refers to the process of observing and understanding the characteristics of a wave in order to determine how best to approach it.
This includes factors such as:
The size of the wave
The shape it takes upon breaking (steep, dumpy, soft, mushy, rolling)
The wind’s effect on the wave (offshore and clean, onshore and bumpy, glassy with no wind)
The wave direction (left, right, both left and right)
How fast or slow it breaks
The power of the wave*
It might look like a lot to consider, but it’s actually easier than you think. With a little practice and some patience, you can quickly assess the conditions and catch waves easier, faster and more consistently.
You’ll then cut down on how long it takes to learn to surf!
*Power is a tricky one, and most beginners aren’t able to identify it right away. But as you gain more experience, you’ll start to get a sense of how powerful each wave is by observing how it breaks and the force of the whitewater.
Why is learning to read waves important?
Simply put, learning how to read waves is important as it ensures you know exactly what to expect from a surf session.
Waves break differently depending on all manner of factors, and how many waves you catch in one session is determined by your ability to read them.
Once you can eyeball a particular break and assess the conditions, you’ll benefit in the following ways:
Skill-level-to-wave suitability: By reading waves, you’ll be able to identify which waves are best suited for your skill level. This means you can avoid attempting to ride waves that may be too advanced and focus on those that will challenge and improve your skills
Wave selection: Knowing how to read waves also helps with wave selection. You’ll be able to choose the best waves that offer a longer ride, more power and greater opportunity for manoeuvring
Safety: Understanding how to read waves also helps in terms of safety. By being able to assess the conditions, you can avoid getting caught in dangerous situations such as rips or shorebreaks
Correct board choice: Different boards suit different types of waves. By reading waves, you’ll be able to choose the right board for the specific conditions and therefore better enjoy your session. Learn more about different board types
Mental preparation: Visualisation is a powerful tool in surfing, and by reading waves, you can mentally prepare for each wave before even catching it. This way you essentially know what to expect from each wave before you even ride it
More confidence: Lastly, having an understanding of how to read waves will give you more confidence in the water. You’ll feel more in control and better equipped to tackle any conditions that come your way
Is it possible to hack your wave reading skills?
Yes!
While there’s a common myth that some people are just naturally better at reading waves, the truth is that anyone can improve this skill with practice and observation. Having a wave-reading guide like this definitely helps, and we suggest keeping this page open the next time you visit the surf.
By revising this page every so often, you’ll learn how to tell a right-hand breaking wave from a left-hand breaking wave (and an a-frame wave), as well as wave directions, whether it’s a closeout wave, where the wave will break and more.
What are key tips for reading waves like an experienced surfer?
Want to learn how to read waves better and ultimately catch more waves?
Every breaking wave is different, and there’s a chance a wave will break randomly even at a consistent break. Here are some key tips to help you read a wave’s shape from an experienced surfer’s perspective.
Don’t paddle straight out. Watch, observe, process
It’s tempting when you roll up to an empty beach or break to paddle straight out and get in on the action. But take a moment to stop, watch the waves and assess the conditions before paddling out.
This gives you time to observe how the waves are breaking, where they’re breaking and what type of wave it is (e.g., left, right or close out). It also allows you to see which surfers are catching more waves and how they’re doing it.
Take the time to watch, observe and process what you’re seeing. You’ll be surprised at how much this can improve your wave reading skills.
Look for patterns
Waves break in all manner of size and shape.
Some waves are bigger, some are smaller. Some have a steeper face, others are rolling and mellow and some are a closeout wave.
Look for recurring patterns in the waves in order to determine the overall quality and conditions of a particular break.
For example, if you see that the waves consistently break in a certain spot every 5 minutes or so, then you know where to position yourself for catching consistent waves.
Conversely, if you notice that one spot has plenty of waves but there’s also a large amount of sand being churned up as they break, chances are it’s too shallow for you to safely ride those waves.
Remember that patience is key
Surfing is one big exercise in patience, and what most surfers won’t tell you is that it’s mainly a waiting game.
When you paddle out and reach the lineup, don’t just swing and go for the first wave you see. Take the time to observe and wait for a good one to come your way.
This also ties into reading waves – by being patient, you can identify which waves are worth catching based on their size, shape and power.
Learn patience and you’ll be shredding Perth’s best beginner beaches in no time at all!
Use past sessions as a reference
Do you keep a session journal to record your surf sessions?
If not, it’s a great way to track your progress and keep notes on which waves you caught, how they were breaking and what board you were using.
By referencing past sessions, you can see if there are any correlations between certain conditions and the types of waves that break in those conditions.
This will also give you an idea of what to expect when returning to a familiar spot.
Pay attention to other surfers
One of the biggest bits of advice for how to read waves is to pay attention to other surfers.
Watch how they’re catching waves, where they’re positioning themselves and which waves they choose to ride.
By learning from more experienced surfers, you can improve your own wave reading skills and start making better decisions in the water.
Remember that every surfer started as a beginner at some point, so don’t be afraid to ask for tips or advice from others in the lineup.
Learn about the different wave types
Did you know that there are multiple types of waves, each with their own unique characteristics?
Knowing how to identify and read these different wave types can greatly improve your surfing experience.
For example, point breaks generally break in a set direction at a set speed. Beach breaks are more unpredictable and shifty, with multiple peaks to choose from.
Reef breaks offer more powerful, hollow waves that require a different approach from the surfer. A closeout wave is when the whole wave breaks at the same time, which means there’s zero wave-riding potential.
If you know what type of wave you’re dealing with, you can better anticipate how it’ll break and position yourself accordingly.
Final thoughts
Remember, learning how to read waves is one of the fundamental skills for any surfer.
You could be a true beginner who has only been in the water a handful of times, but if you have a good wave-reading IQ, you’ll catch more waves, avoid dangerous situations and have a better overall experience in the water than even more experienced surfers.
Be patient, watch other surfers and keep these tips handy. We guarantee that with practice, you’ll become a wave-reading pro in no time.
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